Chainsaw Buying Guide

Before anything else, decide how your saw gets its energy. This single choice shapes the weight, noise, maintenance routine, and price of everything else you'll consider.

• Gas Powered — The traditional workhorse. Gas saws deliver the most raw cutting power and unlimited runtime as long as you carry fuel, making them the standard for felling large trees, bucking firewood, and all-day professional work. The trade-offs are real: fuel mixing, spark plugs, air filters, pull-starting, heavy vibration, and enough noise to require hearing protection.
• Battery Powered — The fastest-growing category and the sweet spot for most homeowners. Instant push-button starts, no fumes, far less noise, and almost no maintenance beyond chain care. Modern high-voltage packs handle limbs, small trees, and firewood rounds with ease; the limits are runtime per charge and reduced grunt in thick hardwood. Best if you already own tools in a battery platform.
• Corded Electric — The budget-friendly, never-runs-out option. Plug in and cut consistently forever, with modest weight and low noise. You're tethered to an extension cord, so it's ideal for cutting near the house, a woodpile, or a workshop, and useless deep in the woods.
• Manual Hand Powered — Pocket and rope-style chain saws with no motor at all. Weighing almost nothing and costing very little, they're camping and emergency-kit gear for branches and small trunks, not production cutting.

Match the power source to your longest realistic session: gas for heavy or remote work, battery for convenience and mixed yard tasks, corded for steady close-to-home cutting, and manual as a backup you'll be glad to have.

Chainsaws come in distinct form factors built around how and where you hold them. Buying the wrong type is the most common mistake shoppers make, so get this right early.

• Rear Handle — The classic two-handed design with the rear grip behind the engine. This is the all-purpose shape for ground-level work: felling, bucking, firewood, and storm cleanup. If you only own one chainsaw, it's almost certainly this one.
• Top Handle — Compact saws with the rear grip on top, designed for one-handed operation by trained climbers working in a tree. They're nimble and light but significantly less safe for beginners on the ground, since one-handed cutting invites kickback injuries.
• Mini — Tiny 4 to 6 inch battery saws that have exploded in popularity. Genuinely useful for pruning, shaping shrubs, and slicing small branches with one hand, and light enough for anyone to manage. Don't expect them to cut anything much thicker than a wrist.
• Pole — A small cutting head on an extension shaft, letting you reach overhead limbs from the ground instead of climbing a ladder. Look at total reach and head weight, since a long pole gets tiring fast at full extension.
• Pruning Saw — Smaller, lower-kickback saws tuned for clean cuts on live branches and orchard work, prioritizing control over speed.
• Pocket Chain Saw — A length of chain with two handles that you pull back and forth by hand. Packs flat, weighs ounces, and belongs in a hiking pack or trunk emergency kit.

Think about where the wood is: on the ground means rear handle, overhead means pole, in the canopy means top handle for pros only, and light yard tidying means mini or pruning.

Bar length is the measured cutting length of the guide bar, and it determines the maximum diameter you can cut cleanly. The rule of thumb: your bar should be roughly two inches longer than the thickest log you regularly cut.

• Under 6 in — Mini saw territory. Perfect for one-handed pruning, vines, and small branches, with almost no kickback risk and effortless handling.
• 6 in to 9 in — Common on pole saws and compact battery saws. Handles branches up to about four to six inches, which covers the vast majority of routine yard maintenance.
• 10 in to 13 in — The light-duty homeowner range. Great for trimming, small firewood, and cleanup after a storm without the bulk of a full-size saw.
• 14 in to 16 in — The most popular and most versatile range for good reason. A 16 inch bar cuts firewood, drops small to medium trees, and remains controllable for occasional users. Start here if you're unsure.
• 17 in to 20 in — Serious homeowner and semi-pro range. An 18 or 20 inch bar chews through big rounds and larger trunks but needs a genuinely powerful engine or high-voltage motor to avoid bogging down.
• 21 in to 24 in — Heavy work: large hardwood felling, land clearing, and high-volume firewood production. Expect real weight and a demand for experience.
• Over 24 in — Professional logging and milling. These require large-displacement engines and proper technique, and they're overkill and unsafe for casual use.

Longer isn't better; an underpowered saw with too much bar cuts slowly and wears out fast, while a well-matched 16 inch setup will out-work an oversized bargain saw every time.

For gas saws, engine displacement in cubic centimeters is the clearest measure of cutting power. More cc means more torque to keep the chain moving through dense wood, along with more weight, noise, and fuel use.

• Under 30 cc — Small engines found on pole saws and compact limbing saws. Fine for branches and light pruning, easily overwhelmed by thick logs.
• 30 cc to 39 cc — The entry-level homeowner class, usually paired with 14 to 16 inch bars. Light, easy to start, and well suited to firewood rounds, storm cleanup, and small trees a few times a year.
• 40 cc to 49 cc — The best all-around value for anyone who cuts regularly. Enough power for 16 to 18 inch bars and hardwood, without the weight penalty of a pro saw. If you heat with wood, look here first.
• 50 cc to 59 cc — Semi-professional performance. Handles 18 to 20 inch bars confidently, drops mature trees, and keeps up with long work sessions.
• 60 cc to 69 cc — Full professional power for large-diameter felling and land clearing. Heavy and demanding, but fast.
• 70 cc and Larger — Logging and milling equipment for experienced operators running long bars all day. Serious fuel appetite and serious vibration.

Choose displacement based on wood density and hours per year, not on bar length alone; most homeowners are genuinely happiest in the 40 to 50 cc window.

On cordless saws, voltage is the rough equivalent of engine displacement, while amp-hours determine runtime. Higher voltage generally means more torque to resist bogging in thick cuts.

• 12V and 18V — Mini saw and pruning territory, often shared with a drill and impact driver you already own. Light, cheap to add, and limited to small branches.
• 20V — The dominant homeowner platform, used widely across major tool brands. Plenty for 8 to 12 inch bars, pruning, and light firewood, and appealing because the batteries fit dozens of other tools.
• 24V and 36V — A step up in sustained power, often found on mid-size yard saws and pole saws with better performance in hardwood.
• 40V and 48V — The mainstream outdoor-power range. Good balance of runtime and torque for 14 to 16 inch bars and regular yard work.
• 56V and 60V — High-performance cordless that genuinely rivals small gas saws, driving 16 to 18 inch bars through firewood without complaint. The premium choice for serious homeowners.
• 80V — Top-tier cordless power aimed at replacing mid-size gas saws entirely, with the price and battery weight to match.

Pick the battery ecosystem before the saw if you already own cordless tools, and always check amp-hours too, since a high-voltage saw with a small pack will leave you waiting on a charger.

The motor or engine architecture affects efficiency, maintenance, and how long the tool lasts. It's a small line on the spec sheet that tells you a lot about build quality.

• Brushless — The premium electric standard. Brushless motors run cooler, waste less battery, deliver more power per pound, and have no carbon brushes to wear out. Worth the upcharge on any battery saw you plan to keep.
• Brushed — Older and cheaper electric design. Perfectly functional for occasional light cutting, but less efficient, noisier, and eventually in need of brush replacement.
• 2-Cycle — The standard gas chainsaw engine, requiring gas premixed with two-stroke oil at a specific ratio. Excellent power-to-weight and simple construction, but fussier fueling and more exhaust.
• 4-Cycle — Separate gas and oil, so no mixing and typically cleaner, quieter running. Rare on chainsaws and somewhat heavier, but attractive if you hate measuring fuel mix.

If you're going cordless, pay for brushless; if you're going gas, expect 2-cycle and get comfortable with the fuel mix ratio printed on the cap.

For plug-in saws, amperage is the power rating. It tells you how much current the motor draws and, indirectly, how aggressively it will cut.

• Under 10 Amp — Light-duty electric saws and pole saws. Suitable for pruning, small branches, and occasional cleanup on short bars.
• 10 Amp to 12 Amp — The practical middle ground, typically on 14 to 16 inch bars. Handles firewood and moderate limbs steadily, and the best value for most corded buyers.
• 13 Amp to 15 Amp — The strongest corded saws available, capable of sustained cutting through thick logs. Pair these with a heavy-gauge extension cord, since an undersized cord starves the motor and causes overheating.

With corded saws, cord quality matters nearly as much as amperage, so budget for a 12 or 14 gauge outdoor extension cord rated for your saw's draw.

Weight is the spec shoppers ignore and then regret. A saw that feels manageable in the driveway feels very different after twenty minutes of overhead limbing, and fatigue is a genuine safety issue.

• Under 5 lbs — Mini saws, pocket saws, and small pruners. Comfortable one-handed, ideal for ladders and tight spaces, and limited to thin material.
• 5 lbs to 8 lbs — Light battery saws and compact electrics. An excellent range for pruning, pole work, and anyone who wants easy control with minimal strain.
• 8 lbs to 11 lbs — Most mainstream homeowner saws land here. Substantial enough to cut real wood, still reasonable to carry around the yard for an afternoon.
• 11 lbs to 14 lbs — Larger gas and high-voltage cordless saws for firewood and felling. Fine at ground level, tiring above shoulder height.
• Over 14 lbs — Professional-grade equipment. The mass actually helps steady deep cuts, but it demands strength, stamina, and good technique.

Check whether the listed weight includes the battery, bar, chain, and fuel, since powerhead-only figures can understate the real number by several pounds.

Features separate a saw that's pleasant to use from one that fights you. Several of these are safety essentials rather than luxuries, so read this list before chasing a lower price.

• Automatic Oiler — Continuously feeds bar oil to the chain while you cut, dramatically extending chain and bar life and preventing overheating. Treat this as non-negotiable on any saw with a bar over about 10 inches; a visible oil level window is a nice bonus.
• Chain Brake — A front hand guard that stops the chain almost instantly if kickback occurs. The single most important safety feature on a chainsaw. Never buy a full-size saw without one.
• Low Kickback — Chain and bar designs that reduce the violent upward snap caused by the bar tip catching wood. Strongly recommended for anyone who isn't a trained professional.
• Tool-Free Chain Tensioning — A knob or dial that lets you tighten a stretched chain in seconds without hunting for a scrench. A genuine convenience win, especially for occasional users who won't carry tools.
• Anti-Vibration — Rubber or spring mounts that isolate the handles from the engine. Reduces hand fatigue and numbness on long sessions, and matters most on gas saws.
• Safety Lock — A trigger lockout that prevents accidental starts, particularly valuable on instant-on battery and mini saws.
• Easy Start — Spring-assisted or decompression pull systems on gas saws that cut the yanking effort. If starting a gas engine intimidates you, look for this explicitly.
• Self-Sharpening — A built-in stone that touches up the chain with a lever pull. Convenient for casual users, though it's no substitute for eventually replacing a worn chain.
• Battery Level Indicator — A simple LED gauge so you know whether you have enough charge left to finish the cut rather than stalling mid-log.
• Quiet and Lightweight — Marketing-friendly but meaningful for neighborhood use and extended overhead work, and a major reason people switch from gas to battery.
• Weather Resistant — Sealed housings and covered ports that shrug off damp conditions, useful for storm cleanup when work rarely waits for sunshine.

Prioritize the chain brake, automatic oiler, and low-kickback chain first, then add the comfort features that match how long you'll actually be holding the saw.

What's in the box swings the true cost of a chainsaw more than almost anything else, especially with cordless models. Read listings carefully, because two nearly identical prices can mean very different packages.

• Battery and Charger Included — The complete kit, and the right choice if you're new to a brand's battery platform. Confirm the amp-hour rating and whether the charger is rapid or standard, since a slow charger can stall your afternoon.
• Tool Only — Bare saw, no battery or charger, at a much lower price. A smart buy only if you already own compatible packs; otherwise the add-on cost often exceeds the saw itself.
• Two Batteries — Lets you cut on one while the other charges, effectively doubling your working session. The best upgrade for anyone doing storm cleanup or firewood.
• Extra Chain — Swapping in a sharp spare beats struggling with a dull one, and chains are consumables. Two chains in the box is real value.
• Extra Guide Bar — Less common, but handy for heavy users or anyone who has ever pinched and bent a bar.
• Carrying Case — Keeps the saw, oil, and tools together and protects the chain in transit. Especially nice for mini and pole saws.
• Bar Cover — A simple scabbard that protects both the chain and your hands during storage. Inexpensive but easy to overlook.
• Chain Sharpener — A file guide or powered sharpener that keeps cutting speed up. A dull chain is the top cause of slow cuts and operator frustration.
• Safety Gloves and Safety Goggles — Welcome inclusions, though bundled versions are often basic. Buy quality eye protection, hearing protection, and cut-resistant gear separately if the kit items feel flimsy.

Add up the price of the batteries, chains, and safety gear you'd have to buy anyway, then compare kits on total cost rather than the headline number.

The clearest way to pick a chainsaw is to name the job first and let the specs follow. Here's what each common task actually demands.

• Tree Pruning and Branch Trimming — Light, maneuverable saws with short bars. Mini saws, pole saws, and pruning saws shine here, and low weight matters more than power.
• Firewood Cutting — Repetitive bucking of logs on the ground. Look for a 16 to 18 inch bar, 40 to 50 cc of gas power or a 56V to 80V cordless, plus a spare chain and a sharpener.
• Tree Felling — Requires a bar longer than the trunk diameter, strong torque, and a reliable chain brake. Mid to large gas saws dominate, and technique training is essential.
• Storm Cleanup — Unpredictable, often remote work under tension. Cordless saws win on instant starts, but bring extra batteries or choose gas if the power is out for days.
• Land Clearing — Long hours through mixed brush and trunks. Demands larger displacement, strong anti-vibration, and a durable pro-grade build.
• Home and Garden — Occasional light cutting a few times a season. A 10 to 14 inch battery or corded saw is plenty and far easier to store and maintain.
• Camping — Portability rules. Pocket chain saws and mini saws pack small and need no fuel.
• Professional Logging and Milling — Large-displacement gas saws with long bars, ripping chains for milling, and a maintenance routine to match. This is career equipment, not weekend gear.

Write down your two most frequent tasks and buy for those; renting a bigger saw for the rare large job costs far less than owning one you can barely lift.

Brand reputation in chainsaws tracks closely with parts availability, service networks, and battery ecosystems. Here's how the major names sort out.

• Stihl and Husqvarna — The two professional benchmarks, known for durable gas saws, strong power-to-weight, and excellent dealer support for parts and service. Premium pricing, and worth it if you cut seriously or often.
• Echo — A pro-leaning brand popular with landscapers for reliable gas saws, long warranties, and easy servicing.
• Ego Power+ and Greenworks — Leaders in high-voltage cordless outdoor power, with 56V to 80V saws that genuinely compete with small gas models. Strong choices if you're going all-in on battery yard tools.
• Makita, DeWalt, and Milwaukee — Contractor tool brands whose chainsaws run on their existing battery platforms. Excellent build quality and a smart pick if you already own their packs; often the best top-handle and pruning cordless options.
• Ryobi — The value leader in cordless, with a huge tool lineup on one battery system. Great for homeowners who want breadth over maximum power.
• Oregon — The chain and bar specialist, respected for cutting components and for saws with built-in self-sharpening.
• Craftsman, Black+Decker, Worx, Skil, and Toro — Mainstream homeowner brands offering dependable light to mid-duty saws at accessible prices, widely available with easy returns.
• Poulan Pro and Remington — Long-standing budget gas and electric options for occasional cutting, with lower expectations for longevity under heavy use.
• Sun Joe, Wen, Einhell, and Senix — Value-focused electric and cordless saws and pole saws, good for light seasonal yard work.
• Seesii, Vevor, Salem Master, and Ceepuy — Direct-to-consumer brands dominating the affordable mini-saw space. Fine for pruning and branches at low cost, but check recent reviews closely for chain quality, oiler function, and replacement part availability.

Buy established brands when you need service, parts, and long life, and stick with your existing battery platform when convenience and cost matter most.